Phantom costumes - real and replicas 1

operafantomet wrote:My Phantom costumes has gotten a better life. After Josefine visited and was in shock over the tiny boxes some of them lived in, I decided to throw out my tiny collection of shoes (they fit anywhere) to use the closet for the Phantom dresses instead. So I lined most of them up on the floor...



...and added cotton straps to the inside of those who already didn't have it - that is everyone but the slavegirl and original Wishing one. The Elissa skirt and the Masquerade dress is still living in boxes, while the slavegirl, dressing gown, original Wishing, Aminta and Wedding dress got a new life in the closet:



I think I'll cover the original Wishing dress with a bed linen, as I did before. The sleeves are still stuffed to keep the rounded shape. It just feels safer that way. But the other ones gets a better life when hanging. And I get easier access as well. Seriously, those cotton straps inside skirts and bodices without sleeves is so good for the costumes. It also makes it way easier to hold them in place on the hanger.

SO wonderful, really wonderful. I wish I had all this costumes. Should I go with my weddind dress to the 25th anniversary?

Sweet Christine, you ARE sweet! More of you need to come to Norway so you could play with my costumes.

As for wearing costume to the performance, are you going with someone else who are? I think I would feel slightly misplaced alone, but several would be cool.

operafantomet wrote:Sweet Christine, you ARE sweet! More of you need to come to Norway so you could play with my costumes.

As for wearing costume to the performance, are you going with someone else who are? I think I would feel slightly misplaced alone, but several would be cool.

Oh I wanna come to Norway .
No my friend will wear normal things. Maybe there are several. I don´t know.

Hmmm, take pictures if you do!

I've been working on the new Wishing bodice today. Velvet front is now sewn on. How to decorate it? Still thinking. I'm rather close to try out an appliqué/bead version, as the Hamburg one in my care has. Main reason is that I zoomed in to the costume design today, and though I think Bjørnson merely suggests wrinkles, I think the beaded "embroidery" is rather close in look:



It also suggests 6 buttons and a bow in front, though - and I'm tempted to drop those.... But I love the rich lace in the neck opening, I definitely want that!

A picture of the Phantom prop I won off Ebay recently. It was used in the Broadway production and is used by Christine in the final "lair" scene!!

SOOO cool! Very happy for you, and very jealous!

operafantomet wrote:SOOO cool! Very happy for you, and very jealous!

Thanks!! Hey, now you know how we all feel about the wonderful Wishing gown and other original POTO costumes you have in you're collection!! :-)

22 new and/or better quality photos in the Wishing gown gallery - including lovely closeups of the Canadian ones:
http://aneafiles.webs.com/potocostumes/wishing.html


ETA: And while I'm nerding.... Stuff you don't often see in the Wishing dresses:


Left: Canadian backdrape in European dress. This because the Mexican production got the costumes from Canada. And then they ordered brand new ones from England too. Why I don't know. Some items from Toronto, like the Phantom's cloak and a couple of Masquerade costumes, were used. Others were apparently used to frankenstein substitute for those needing overhaul/repairs. The picture example here is Felicidad Farag/Madrid. They got the costumes after Mexico.

Top left: skirt hem with trims of doom. 4 broad and 3 narrow (velvet?) ribbons has been sewn to the hem. Looks like it might have reacted badly when dry cleaned or pressed, because the area in between the trims is mighty wrinkled. This picture is of Maria Kesselman, original Christine understudy. She and Claire Moore (original alternate) was the first - and last - to have this in their dresses...

Mid top: Basically all European dresses have chevron (V shaped) aprons with a pleated ruffle, and also pleated cuffs. Not so this version. Here the apron is straight and undraped, and the ruffle on apron and sleeves is gathered instead of pleated. There's also a double row of velvet trims on the ruffles. This was done to be in sync with the costume design, which shows a straight apron and horizontal stripes on the ruffles. The latter has been done in other costumes, for example in Vienna. But with the straight apron as well, that is unique to Stockholm and Copenhagen (which bought the Stockholm costumes). The picture here is of Agnete Munk Rasmussen/Copenhagen.

Top right: oy vey. I think it's only the USA who's used other fabrics than the stripy/floral silk. Usually they have been close to the silk still, by sporting the same blue colour, or a nice floral pattern. This fabric is reeeeally different, with large floral motifs in navy, pale blue, red and green. The trim is also navy and turquoise instead of navy and white. I don't know which Christine wore this, but it was exhibited when the US tour still traveled.

Bottom left: Whereas Sara Jean Ford used a non-stripy dress on tour (actually Patti Cohenour's beautiful dress from the Broadway premiere), she got a stripy one on Broadway. But not a new one, oh no. Though the dress looks rather pristine in the photo, there is a visible seam at the upper panier, where a piece of fabric from maybe a different dye bath has been inserted. Probably not visible on stage, but not hard to spot in this photo. But I guess these dresses sometimes need repair, though they're made to last "forever".

Middle: One of the Stockholm dresses appears to have been too open in the neck for the new wearer in Copenhagen. Instead of remodeling it, a false chemise with velvet trim and a pendant was inserted in the neck opening. I think it's the only dress who's had this feature, and I also think it's a nice combo of practical and aesthetical. I actually like it a lot. The wearer here is Hanne Damm.

Lower right: Another way of adjusting the size/fit without remodel the whole thing: This bodice has gotten an much broader faux velvet vest in front, to fit the lovely curves of Ana Marina. This one was used in the World Tour, which used the Australian costumes. They're now back in South Africa, and I'm looking forward to see how the Wishing dress will look there... Though I bet they have tons of them.

Now to the real mystery (well, the big question following WHY DID THE PHANTOM TAKE OFF HIS JACKET IN THE FINAL LAIR?):

Why did someone feel they had to put on a lot of gold appliqués in the wedding dress Sierra Boggess wore at the concert? If they wanted more glitter and glam, I would have expected silver, or white, or something blending well while still adding bling. The gold ones looked like pigeon poo in the screening! It looks better in the picture underneath, but it's still very random...

operafantomet wrote:Now to the real mystery (well, the big question following WHY DID THE PHANTOM TAKE OFF HIS JACKET IN THE FINAL LAIR?):

Why did someone feel they had to put on a lot of gold appliqués in the wedding dress Sierra Boggess wore at the concert? If they wanted more glitter and glam, I would have expected silver, or white, or something blending well while still adding bling. The gold ones looked like pigeon poo in the screening! It looks better in the picture underneath, but it's still very random...

I totally agree.. it was .. unexpected..

I am *salivating* at your costumes.. how much would it be for you to make a Christine costume for me lol.. you are possible one of the best (if the the best) Phantom costume maker out there.

eriklefantome wrote:

operafantomet wrote:Now to the real mystery (well, the big question following WHY DID THE PHANTOM TAKE OFF HIS JACKET IN THE FINAL LAIR?):

Why did someone feel they had to put on a lot of gold appliqués in the wedding dress Sierra Boggess wore at the concert? If they wanted more glitter and glam, I would have expected silver, or white, or something blending well while still adding bling. The gold ones looked like pigeon poo in the screening! It looks better in the picture underneath, but it's still very random...

I totally agree.. it was .. unexpected..

I am *salivating* at your costumes.. how much would it be for you to make a Christine costume for me lol.. you are possible one of the best (if the the best) Phantom costume maker out there.

Thank you for those nice words!

I don't make costumes for others, of the sole reason that it takes forever and a day, and demands so much materials, and in the end items become so expensive few would be willing to buy them. So I have long-term projects where I make stuff for myself, or stuff like a wedding dress for my sister, but that's it. I have, however, featured some pretty amazing Phantom costume replica makers over at my Facebook site, and I think at least Artistkae does commissions. If you haven't seen her work, DO! It's amazing. They're all amazing. Here's the ones featured so far:

Artistkae/several Christine and Masquerade costumes:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.242276359141031.52408.225253507509983&type=1

Gunilla/several Christine costumes:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.237345086300825.51598.225253507509983&type=1

Phantomfett/Red Death:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.238866132815387.51885.225253507509983&type=1

Phantom on a Budget/The Phantom:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.252771864758147.54780.225253507509983&type=1

Darcy/Meg Gypsy Girl:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.255613484473985.55456.225253507509983&type=1

We need a Raoul... And a Carlotta... And Madame Giry... And we're ready to perform. Seriously though, if anyone else want to be featured, please email me at operafantomet (at) hotmail (dot) com. I know there are lots and lots of awesome costumes out there which should be featured, I just don't have the energy to chase down all of you...

Ooh Anea.. I will save those links... haha you guys are amazing... Is it hard to learn to sew? I know I am creative but just for some reason haven't learned how to do it yet. My aunt is a talented seamstress (is that the word) .. and maybe she'll help me. I do want a super authentic replica lol.. maybe my first project should be the blue Wishing dress (I so love period costume)..

Is it hard hunting down authentic looking material? Since I'm in NYC, it should be no problem doing so?

Thanks for your response!

Anyone can learn how to sew. Red Death was my first project.

As for the blue Wishing dress fabric, it is custom made from England, so you won't find it in NY stores.

eriklefantome wrote:Ooh Anea.. I will save those links... haha you guys are amazing... Is it hard to learn to sew? I know I am creative but just for some reason haven't learned how to do it yet. My aunt is a talented seamstress (is that the word) .. and maybe she'll help me. I do want a super authentic replica lol.. maybe my first project should be the blue Wishing dress (I so love period costume)..

Is it hard hunting down authentic looking material? Since I'm in NYC, it should be no problem doing so?

Thanks for your response!

Learning to sew is a progress. I was so proud of my first dresses (some renaissance, some Phantom), but when I look at them today I see everything I did wrong, and I'm not too likely to wear them. But back then they were very right, and for each dress I made I learned something new. Each new costume I make is a sum of every other costume I've made - if that makes sense. So I think the best advice is to just start - make whatever, and keep making stuff.

If you head for the Wishing dress as your first project, I definitely suggest using a good pattern. There are no exact patterns available, but you can "frankenstein" various pattern into what you want. For example, these two from Truly Victorian:

http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=34&cat=2&page=1
http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=41&cat=2&page=1


...will give you a dress which is pretty close. What you need is to make "paniers" (side drapes) and waterfall backdrapes, which I think there are tutorials on online. And if not online, try those books explaining curtain and upholstery drapings. That's exactly what you need for the ornamental Victorian costumes in Phantom.

As for finding materials when you live in NYC, no that will not be a problem at all! The fabric district close to The Majestic (sic!) is glorious. The workshops making real Phantom costumes buy various stuff from them. The only thing you won't find is the blue stripy/floral silk used for the Wishing dress - that's custom made by a small workshop in England. But as all the fantastic replicas will show, you will be able to find something similar/suitable to make a smashing replica!

The main thing to remember about Phantom costumes is layering. Layer on layer on layer, with sequins and trims and appliqués and lace on top. Maria Bjørnson, Phantom's designer, called it "kritzy-kritzy". I have no idea what those words did mean to her, but I understand the effect. It adds a depth and bling, which makes every costume rich looking from every angle.

So.... good patterns... twice as much materials than what you'd think... patience... and a small trip or ten to NYC's fabric district. Yes, you can!

Aww thanks a bunch everyone! Too bad the authentic fabric is made somewhere in England... I will definitely attend sewing class sometime in the future and make that awesome blue wishing dress.

Thanks and awesome topic post, will pay close attention to it.

Now for a little costume review of the 25th anniversary concert...


In general, bravo! It looked new, lush, shiny, elegant and sharp throughout. Especially Sierra Boggess' dresses looked sharp, so much that I wondered if they had made her brand new ones. Either that, or existing ones had been re-fitted, washed, dry cleaned and re-decorated. But even the slavegirl costumes in Hannibal looked pristine. So I think we're talking a major overhaul of existing costumes, to allow the extreme closeups.

I was told in August that they were flying in costumes from all over the world to dress all the extras. If that is the case, it wasn't very noticable. Though I spend much of Masquerade looking for eventual US costumes, I couldn't spot any. What I did spot, however, was a couple of German costumes. Which makes sense, seeing how short a shipping they would need, and the fact that they are currently not in use, AND in the same style as the UK ones. Still a bit disappointing, as I looked forward to the merging of styles, and to see them side by side.


THE GOOD:
*Almost everything. But the pristine look of everything was a highlight. That's how people must have felt when Broadway got brand new costumes for the "longest running" event, or how the Vegas production looked when it opened. It just looks so.... divine.


(pristine slavegirl costume, UK style. This is Anna Forbes, by the way)

*The fact that they had put bigger underskirts than usual under the Wishing and (I think) Wedding dress skirts. They were a lot bigger than normal. For the most it made them look better, except the paniers of the Wishing dress was sewn to the apron, and they pulled a bit because of the bigger fundament. They should have split they layers there. But the side-and-backdrapes of the wedding dress looked spectacular! I would have posted a picture of it, but I haven't found a truly good one yet.

*Seems like they dyed the shirts the extra maids (Sofia Escobar and Katie Hall?) wore in Il Muto. The skirts were UK style, but I've never seen the skirts paired with so colourful shirts before. One was mint green, the other pink. The third maid wore a Meg "Il Muto" costume, which also worked well. See picture underneath for the mint green version Sofia Escobar wore.



*The Phantom's deformity. This is where my regional preference kicks in. The UK ones looks... I don't wanna use the word "natural" here, but to my eye they look the most convincing. I've never been a fan of all the red other productions adds, and I think there's some highly sculpted and... well.... natural about the UK one. They probably went the extra mile for this taping as well. The deformity worked very well, despite seeing some of the details too well in closeups.



*That Celia Graham wore my maybe all-time favourite ensemble dress, evvah. Namely a blue "Don Juan Rehearsal" dress from the German productions. The colours and the tailoring is just da bomb. I was very surprised to see this one show up in the concert. To the left: the dress at curtain call in Essen. To the right: Celia Graham and Sofia Escobar backstage.


THE BAD:

*Those gold.... things on Sierra Boggess' wedding dress bodice. Totally random, and didn't add anything to the look of the dress. Or, it made it look messy. Did she spill tea on it or anything, and they felt like covering up? Maybe they felt the dress was too pristine and white? I guess we'll never know.



*Some non-Björnson dresses were blended in. Deborah Dutcher starred in the brand new role Madame André, and she wore a tan dress which was in one way more historically correct, but in another way more dull. No kritzy-kritzy. I didn't mind this change, though, but seeing the Madame Firmin dress behind her made me realize that the touch Bjørnson added to her design gives the eye a lot more to look at. There were also a much featured dancer in Masquerade which wore a very random tan costume. It looked flat compared to the ornamental Bjørnson ones. One of the princesses in Hannibal also wore a generic "Victorian" dress, which I didn't care for at all.



*Sierra Boggess' wig. Whereas I do love the natural style of the UK wigs, they have started a new style where they give the lower hair only a gentle curl, or more waves, while the upper hair is properly curled. Problem is that in humid weather (or in the extremely overheated RAH), the barely curled hair loose its curls in some 30 minutes. It was all too apparent in the second act of the concert, and the wig looked downright sad in the Final Lair. Please go back to curl the whole wig, or swap to a new one for the second act. The Final Lair look was not worthy of an otherwise excellent wig department.



*Wendy Ferguson's Countess costume. AAAAAARRRGH!!! Because of the on-stage change and the limited time, they had come up with a solution of merely tying the Countess overdress over the generic corset Ferguson wore under her b/w dress. This instead of the decorated stomacher she normally use. It looked so poorly executed, especially in the many closeups during Il Muto. Why couldn't they have decorated her generic corset in front instead, and fastened the overdress to the sides? This was a wardrobe flaw de luxe. To the left above: how the stomacher usually looks. To the right: the temporary "tie overdress over busked corset" style Wendy Ferguson wore at the concert. Next to her is Rosemary Ashe as the Confidante!



*Since Raoul didn't jump from the bridge, there were less reason to feature him in torn, wet shirt in the Final Lair. But pristine shirt and waistcoat? Me no gusta. It fit his arrogant!aristocrat!prick!Raoul, though. By all means, don't ruin that precious waistcoat of yours.



*Not using the shoulder puff things in the Star Princess costume was an odd choice. Sure, it had some bling instead, but it felt very random. It neither improved nor lessened the costume, except it looked a bit bare. But I saw no obvious reasons for this change. And hence, whyyy?



*The Red Death mask looked so sad without the drape under the chin. Or, not sad. Just... Less threatening, more costume-y. And like the puffed sleeves of Christine's costume, I didn't understand why they felt like changing it. For the heck of it?

That Red Death really took me out of the moment. Between the shape and color of the mask, the lack of black screens over the eyes, and the missing cowl....wow, what a distraction. That's what happens when you live with Red Death though.

I agree on the deformity. I've always like London's more natural colors. They're more subtle, but that much more realistic. It was nice to see it up close, though that also comes with seeing all the details that aren't meant for high-res cameras (bald cap unglued at the nape of the neck, etc). Normal stuff, but not usually seen by the stage audience.

Hey. Got a question.

I was wondering, is there a way we can make a post that groups everything for each costume (patterns, fabric, lace, etc.). I'm thinking of taking up a sewing project and there is so much information (good information) in this thread I have to dig around for.

Maybe not a sticky, but a grouped post or something that labels the dress and websites to buy the materials for each costume?

Sorry if I sound rude. I just wanna make a good costume. Going to the fabric store this weekend with a friend getting ideas.

I think that's a great idea, because all of the information can be overwhelming. Maybe a separate costume resources thread? Then costumers can submit links and whatnot and have them grouped into categories on the first post?

Phantom on a Budget wrote:I think that's a great idea, because all of the information can be overwhelming. Maybe a separate costume resources thread? Then costumers can submit links and whatnot and have them grouped into categories on the first post?

Yes. This! Thanks for summing it all up!

You don't have to ask, you know!

Well, this thread has so many people bustling around. Didn't want to step on anybody's toes! I just wanted to okay it.

STOP THE PRESSES!

I have just been informed of an auction in the UK that is being held tomorrow. It is the dispersal of a costume company's holdings and among all the things they are auctioning are two very distinctive Tailcoats that are *VERY* similar to the Phantom's tailcoats!

Phantom Tailcoat 1: http://www.andersonandgarland.com/BidCat/detail2.asp?SaleRef=CS081011&LotRef=257
Phantom Tailcoat 2: http://www.andersonandgarland.com/BidCat/detail2.asp?SaleRef=CS081011&LotRef=259
Full Catalogue: http://www.andersonandgarland.com/Costumesale.asp
Special Mention - Leslie Howard's Scarlet Pimpernel frock coat is being offered as well: http://www.andersonandgarland.com/BidCat/detail2.asp?SaleRef=CS081011&LotRef=604

If ANYONE in the UK could bid on those tailcoats, I have a friend who actually found the listings and would love to get one of them, but is unable to because he can't call out of the country (he's a US resident like me) and it's too late to submit an absentee bid form.

There are some incredible things in the catalogue, if you can stand to wade through all the tacky animal mascot costumes. I would kill to be there, myself. Guh.

Anyhow, SOMEONE, ANYONE in the UK who is near this place, please, check it out!

~Madame~

ML6 wrote:Well, this thread has so many people bustling around. Didn't want to step on anybody's toes! I just wanted to okay it.

Well, when it comes to Phantom costumes my motto is "The more, the merrier".

Madame Giry, that's quite a find!!

I had a makeup/costume day and decided to speak a little bit on the process for venting a full lace wig, as is done for the stage show. Please check it out!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09nLfwTwIUI

That video is amazing! I am constantly amazed and inspired by the talented people on these boards. Your dedication and attention to detail is so impressive. How do you attach/remove the wig? Spirit gum and acetate? You look stunning. Brava!

Phantom on a Budget wrote:I had a makeup/costume day and decided to speak a little bit on the process for venting a full lace wig, as is done for the stage show. Please check it out!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09nLfwTwIUI

Awesome, so cool that you share this with everyone...brava!!

justin1976 wrote:That video is amazing! I am constantly amazed and inspired by the talented people on these boards. Your dedication and attention to detail is so impressive. How do you attach/remove the wig? Spirit gum and acetate? You look stunning. Brava!

Thank you! Yep, the wig is secured along the front lace with spirit gum. Alcohol (or other removers) is used to take it off.

Also, here's the new makeup video. Condensed it all into one, and I'm much happier with this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uB1jSlIlUEE

Great job with these videos AND with all the work you've put into your wig, makeup etc. If I had the time and sanity involved, I'd love to take a shot at making a wig.

Okay. After much browsing around in this thread, I have decided that I'm going to dust off my old sewing machine and make a Phantom costume. The only problem is, I don't know where to start!

I want to do the 'Dressing Gown', because its probably the one that is the most iconic when I think of Phantom.

I have mentioned earlier that I want to create a 'thread' where everything for each costume is grouped so people don't have to be hunting around. I am willing to do that, but I need to make sure I have all the correct fabric and links.

So, quid pro quo: provide me with links and I shall make you a beautiful thread where all your wonderful finds are grouped together for easy access. I hope to include links to tips and how-to-dos for each costume (if needed).


Thanks!<3